After filling the pool, or when a chlorine residual of 1.0-1.5 ppm cannot be maintained for a 24 hour period, or at least every 60 days for preventative maintenance, the stabilizer (conditioner) level should be checked with a test kit to maintain a minimum level of 30 parts per million. The stabilizer acts as a sun shield to chlorine, allowing the chlorine to remain in the water longer and do its job. Stabilizing or conditioning assures that the chlorine will be present at all times to kill bacteria and algae.

Pro Tip:

Use pool conditioner to stabilize or condition pool water. Clean or backwash pool filter first. Add pool conditioner at the rate of 1 pound for every 4,000 gallons of pool water. Bring to a minimum of 30 ppm. This should last all season and longer.

Total alkalinity (in parts per million) is the concentration of alkaline chemicals in the pool water. While not the same as pH, it does control pH to a large degree. The ideal range of 80 to 120 ppm makes pH control easier. Above 120 ppm, larger additions of pH chemicals are necessary to make adjustments to the pH. Below 80 ppm, pH tends to be very sensitive and difficult to control. Measurement can be obtained with a total alkalinity test kit. If too low, add total alkalinity increaser as per label instructions. If too high, add a pH lowering solution like Pool pH Minus or muriatic acid as per instructions to bring total alkalinity down to the 80 to 120 ppm range. Retest pH after adjusting total alkalinity.

Pro Tip:

 

To raise total alkalinity (TA):

Gallons	10 ppm	20 ppm	30 ppm
5,000	12 oz.	24 oz.	36 oz.
7,500	18 oz.	36 oz.	54 oz.
10,000	24 oz.	48 oz.	72 oz.
15,000	36 oz.	72 oz.	108 oz.
20,000	48 oz.	96 oz.	144 oz.
25,000	60 oz.	120 oz.	180 oz.
30,000	72 oz.	144 oz.	216 oz.

The measure of the alkalinity or acidity of pool water is on a scale of 0 to 14. (0 - 6.9 is acidic, 7 - 7.9 is neutral, and 8.0 - 14 is alkaline.) The pH is by far the most important factor in water balance because it affects the ability of the chlorine to kill bacteria. A reading between 7.2 to 7.6 is ideal.

 

6.8  - 7.0	7.2 - 7.6	7.8 - 8.0	8.2 - 8.4	8.6
Too Low	Ideal	Non-Irritating	Somewhat Irritating	Irritating
-Corrosion  -Skin Discomfort    -Eye Irritation  -Liner Wrinkle  -Loss of Chlorine	-Ideal Range  -Efficiency of chlorine is at its maximum	-Satisfactory, but less effective range for chlorine	-Chlorine effectiveness decreases  -Scale  -Cloudy water  -Excessive chlorine usage	-Scaling  -Eye Irritation    -Chlorine completely ineffective

 

 

Sanitizing your pool water with chlorine is a continuous job. The amount of chlorine needed will depend on the temperature of the water, bather load, and impurities in the pool. Use your test kit to determine the level of chlorine in your pool. If the chlorine residual is below 1.0 ppm, chlorine is needed. A chlorine residual of 1.0 is absolutely necessary to keep pool water clear of bacteria and algae. When using a mineral system or other means of killing bacteria, chlorine level can be kept at .5 to 1.0 ppm. Learn more about our Algae Free Guarantee.

Pro Tip:

To maintain a chlorine level of 1.0 to 1.5 ppm, use any of the following:

 

• Automatic Chlorination: The easiest and most efficient method.
• 1” Slow Tablets: Place 10 tablets into feeder for every 5,000 gallons every 7-14 days. Retest chlorine level.
• Jumbo Slow Tablets: Place one tablet into feeder for every 5,000 gallons every 7-14 days. Retest chlorine level.
• Granular Chlorine: Broadcast over water at the rate of 1 ounce per 5,000 gallons every day. Retest chlorine level.
• Automatic Chlorination With Mineral: The best possible way to sanitize your pool. Chlorine level should be between .5-1.0 ppm.

Please note: The amount actually needed may vary depending on temperature, wind, rain, and pool usage. These are approximates. Read your manufacturer’s label for exact amounts.

Shocking is the addition of a powerful oxidizer (chlorine) to pool water to restore free chlorine levels to their optimum ability to sanitize. This will make chlorine more effective in controlling algae and bacteria. Shocking is recommended weekly once the water exceeds 80℉ or when your pool is receiving heavy bather use or when the pool is subject to long periods of rain or high winds carrying dust, debris or pollen. Always Test water for chlorine levels before adding chlorine.

Pro Tip:

Using Blast helps break down oils and soaps. This helps out your filter especially after high bather load.

 

Liquid chlorine is used at 1 gallon per 12,000 gallons and granular is used at 1 oz. per 5,000 gallons.

 

Step 7: Check Filter System

The filter system is designed to remove debris by circulating the pool water and screening out insoluble particles. Chemicals alone do not keep the pool water clean. The importance of proper filtration cannot be overemphasized in the overall program of sound pool management and sanitary water.

Pro Tip:

Run filter at least long enough to turn over the water once daily. Check pump, filter, and circulation system periodically. Clean filter often for optimum water clarity. Follow filter manufacturer’s guidelines regarding backwashing and maintenance. Replace sand as needed yearly, and hose off and clean cartridge filters.

Step 8: Clean Your Pool  

Keeping the pool physically clean is as important as the regular additions of chemicals. Debris in the pool is unsightly, increases chlorine demand, and may cause staining of the pool liner. During the swimming season, thoroughly clean the pool at least once a week. 

Pro Tip:

1. Maintain proper water level (you can lose up to 3” of water per week through evaporation, splash outs and back washing).

2. Skim pool surface with leaf skimmer.

3. Brush walls and floor with proper pool brush (vacuuming time will be decreased).

4. Remove dirt ring from liner with tile and vinyl cleaner.

5. Clean out skimmer basket.

6. Clean out hair and lint basket.

7. Check filter pressure and backwash when needed (read manufacturer’s instructions).

8. Keep area near pool clean.

9. Check hoses and equipment and replace when needed.

10. Vacuum pool (see more on this below).

Step 9: Vacuum

 

To vacuum, simply connect the vacuum head to the pole, and connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum head. Before connecting the other end of the hose to the skimmer or vacuum fitting, the hose must be full of water. To do this, either slowly submerge hose until filled, or hold hose over return eyelet until filled. After the hose is filled with water connect hose to skimmer or vacuum fitting. Holding the pole, lower the vacuum head with the attached hose into the water and vacuum pool. It may be necessary to backwash the filter after vacuuming.

Step 10: Handle Chemicals with Care

 

Read product labels carefully and follow directions exactly. Read and follow all HAZARDS and CAUTIONS on all labels before using. Pool chemicals will do their work effectively, but they must be handled with care. Remember:

1. Keep all chemicals away from children and pets.

2. Never mix chemicals together.

3. Always add chemicals to water.

4. Store chemicals in a cool, dry place.

5. Keep containers closed when not in use.

6. Thoroughly clean empty containers.

7. Wash hands thoroughly after handling.

8. Familiarize yourself with first aid procedures.